Björn at Kulturen magazine writes about More Sailing

07 September 2017

"I follow a week of sailing as arranged by Swedish More Sailing. Together with eight others on the quay in Maslinicia, north of Split, I pattern on one of the company's sailboats: the white, 16 meter long" More 55 ".

-Last year we sailed this boat across the Atlantic, says the skipper Fredrik Olsson, who lets me steer through the swells towards the island of Vis, while our hostess Bella prepares supper while the sun spreads its golden light over the sea and lures everyone out on deck.

We get to live two and two in small cabins. The atmosphere quickly becomes familiar. Anyone who wants to help during the sailing is welcome to chop in, but it is not a compulsion at all. Fredrik and Bella fix everything practical; the rest of us can indulge in just relaxing and enjoying.

- The business idea is "Sailing trips for everyone", Fredrik explains while I get to take over the wheel and at six knots speed steer towards a distant island.

- We want to remove the hassle that comes when renting a boat on your own. If you buy a sailing trip with us, you have paid for everything except the dinners.

In the mornings we wake up in quiet small harbors and have breakfast on the aft deck while the strong sun rises in a clear blue sky. Bella serves delicious breakfast buffets - and later in the day lunch is served in some bay where we anchor up and at the same time maybe take a bath. We eat dinners at various restaurants, near our mooring.

After four hours of day sailing, we reach the low, vast island of Vis, which for many years was a forbidden area for foreigners because there were military secrets. Today, more and more people are looking for this unexploited, far-out island. The town of Vis on the east side is one of the attractions, as are all the old-fashioned villages and fishing villages that also exist. In the south we visit Bay Stivina, a strangely located beach, which last year was named "Best beach in Europe". In a rubber dinghy, we pass between sky-high rock walls and then reach the half-hidden small beach, with round-cut stones and higher up an ancient stone house - which in this environment looks like painted by Vincent van Gogh.

It is a liberating feeling of freedom to roam between these often desolate islands; to enjoy an archipelago that still feels virginally liberated from mass tourism (apart from the most popular coastal cities). The water is crystal clear (as in Bohuslän fifty years ago) and often changes to turquoise shades.

At sea we meet a herd of dolphins. They tumble happily around the bow and cast curious glances at us standing there by the railing with raised cameras.

Among other highlights: the town of Hvar, located on an island of the same name and which is sometimes also called "Lavender Island". The west-facing beautiful small town (4,000 inhabitants) has previously been known as a place for celebrities but now attracts more and more people and has today become one of Croatia's most popular tourist destinations.

And no wonder: its location in the small bay, with the huge fortress high above it, overlooking miles of stone houses with narrow, shady alleys, is utterly unique and the charm factor is high. In ancient times, the Greeks founded the city of Pharos here.

I rent an electric scooter and ride along a promenade where beaches and hotels are followed by hip bars and huge old-style villas. Then I swim in a bay below one of the many churches, and as the bell tolls across the still, warm water, I look up at the medieval stone houses above the harbor area, where tourist boats are packed together.

Another charming acquaintance is the Unesco-protected city of Trogodir, dating back to the 3rd century BC, with a wonderfully well-preserved city center. Here you can stroll through narrow alleys and almost feel like you've been transported back to the Middle Ages. Don't miss the daily vegetable market, where local farmers sell olive oils, wines and fresh vegetables and fruits.

Moresailing offers week-long sailing trips from June to October and everything is included in the price, including return flights from Sweden.

Fredrik Olsson himself likes to take his guests far out into the archipelago.

-"There are fewer tourists further out from the coast, where not so many people can go. You go ashore at a small restaurant, eat the catch of the day that has just been grilled....

If a group wants a special route, this can also usually be arranged. Maybe you agree to sail under the stars for a whole night and head into Dubrovnik in the morning - or you cross the Adriatic Sea and make a quick visit to Italy ...

The possibilities are many - but whatever you choose for the type of sailing: getting to cruise around the Croatian archipelago is a unique experience, which gives more flavor. "

Article written by journalist Björn Gustavsson

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